After being dropped off at the train
station in Bulawayo, I got in line to buy a ticket on the train that runs daily
from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls. I got out of the car of the guy who was
low-level hitting on me the whole time, then got in line and then immediately
had to deal with the the guy who got in line behind me who was RELENTLESS about
trying to get my phone number and asking to marry me and have me bring him to
the US. When I said no, he kept asking why why why why why and I was thinking
GAHH I DON’T KNOW JUST BECAUSE I DON’T WANT TO AND I DON’T KNOW YOU AND THIS IS
EXHAUSTING JUST STOP. Yep, that charade gets
old before it’s even new. Anyway, the line started moving when they open the
ticket window, and by the time I get there, second class ($10) was already sold
out, so I got a first class ticket ($12). Both first and second classes get
sleeper cars where there are long, cushioned seats/beds. I opted for this
since, first of all, it was an overnight train, and secondly, I had flashbacks
of my aching body and brain from spending 18 hours on a hard seat in a
crowded/loud train across northern Mozambique. So yep, for $12, I happily paid
that low price for both transportation and a bed. Not too shabby.
After
getting my ticket, I went to the waiting area, where lots of people were
already waiting with their bags and bags of stuff, and other people were
selling things like bread and cokes. After a while, people start crowding
around one side of the waiting area that leads to the platforms. 6:30pm hit and
a guy whistled. Someone should have announced, “AND THEY’RE OFF!” because people
were sprinting for their lives, scrambling across other platforms, running to
the front of the train. I just stood there staring, kind of dumbfounded. Then I
realized that those with tickets for the general/economy seating probably weren’t
guaranteed a seat, and they were running to make sure they wouldn’t have to
stand all night. After I was finished being mesmerized by this show of speed, I
hoisted my backpack up, grabbed my other bag of camping gear, and leisurely
walked to the train car indicated on the back of my ticket.
The side of the train- "National Railways Zimbabwe"
The waiting zone
I
found my compartment and soon realized that I had it to myself (except for a
few hours when this other lady was put in there with me, but I was asleep, so I
didn’t care). This train must have been pretty fancy in its heyday when it was
called Rhodesian Railways. There were even still RR logos on the mirrors and
windows. My compartment had a lower seat and an upper bed that flipped down,
and even a little sink and shelves. After some reading and listening to
podcasts, it started to get pretty dark, so I quickly climbed up to the top
bunk, laid out my sleeping bag, and absolutely passed out. Sure, to some
people, trying to sleep on a train that stopped every five minutes might not
have been easy, but I was just so happy to have a “bed” for once. Sleeping in a
tent on a worn-out ground pad doesn’t give you the best sleep, but it sure
makes you appreciate the little things, like sleeping on something cushioney
where your hip bone isn’t digging into the ground.
The cabin. The thing with pictures and a mirror on the left flips down for an upper bunk.
They still have the RR logo for Rhodesian Railways
The
train arrived at the town of Victoria Falls around 11:30am, for a total of 15
hours on the train. Not bad. Plus, watching the baboons out the window, on the
tracks and climbing on top of old trains, was pretty entertaining. Happy to
have arrived, I plotted my route to Shoestrings Backpackers with maps.me,
walked through the small town to get there, and checked in.
Baboons on the tracks
Out the window
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