P175 later, I was on the 12 hour bus from
Gaborone to Maun. And it actually left on time! Amazing. Out the window, all I
saw was scrub brush, scrub brush, goats, cows, and more scrub brush. My butt
was so sore. Three long-distance bus rides in the same week was not so ideal
for my body. I arrived in Maun, got some food at the grocery store, then caught
a combi taxi to the part of town where the rest camps are. I arrived at Old Bridge
backpackers via, yes, an old bridge, and it was raining. I really just wanted
to take a warm shower after the lovely all-day bus ride, but the showers were
roofless, so I would never have gotten dry. I just said screw it; I could
handle being stinky and at least somewhat warm instead of being clean and
shivering. I cooked some eggs and peanuts for dinner and went to sleep in my
trusty, somewhat leaky tent.
I
hung around the hostel for a couple days until I couldn’t stand any more. I got
pretty bored because, compared with South Africa where there were tons of other
people to meet and hang out with, there aren’t so many in the more booneyish
places. I really wish I had a travel buddy for the more boring times like this.
It
finally cleared up after raining nonstop for a few days. My tent only let a few
drops through, monstly at the front flappy part where the mesh touches the
outer fly layer. It’s been hard to sleep, being perpetually moist, but most
days I took a nap to counter that. Last night, I heard a super loud CRACK CRACK
CRACK that turned out to be a giant branch falling off a tree and almost
crushing another tent. Good thing it wasn’t even close to my tent.
I
signed up for a mokoro (canoe) trip on the Okavongo Delta, the main attraction
here in Botswana other than game parks like Chobe. I had enough animals, so I
decided to go to the Delta. I signed up through the hostel, and they took me
and a middle-aged South African couple in one of those safari cars about an hour
to the launch point. I got out of the car and into the boat with my guide, also
called a “poler” since they use these long wooden poles to propel the boats
along, kind of like the Botswanan version of a Gondolier. He poled the boat
through the watery channels, pointing out all the different birds, frogs, and
huge termite mounds along the way. Termite mounds here lean westward because of
the wind that always blows from east to west. Who knew?
Day lilies
Chillin on the delta
Poler traffic jam
We
got out at a huge island and went for a walk, where we found four elephants and
were able to get about 100m away. We also saw some red antelope and some kudu
in the distance. The guide said that normally, one day trips don’t normally see
many animals, as the animals are more out at dawn and dusk. Also, the off-and-on
rain probably chased them off into the bush. He told me about lots of plants,
like a flower with an eye-dropper-like squeezey thing that was used to cure eye
problems, the fan palm with which people make palm wine, and he even made me a
“delta necklace” out of a day lily.
My guide scouting out animals, standing on a termite mound
Delta necklace
After
lunch, he let me try to pole the mokoro. It took so much balance! I almost
“went swimming” a couple times trying to balance on the skinny boat while
trying to move and steer the thing. We started heading back, even passing a hippo
in the water, and then he started booking it through the water because the rain
was coming “now now.” Then, soon enough, it was absolutely pouring. I was
huddling under this poncho thing they gave us, but I still got soaked. That
part was really fun, actually, in the rain, with the drops hitting the water
all around me. Then it was a wet and bumpy ride in the safari car back to the
hostel, and just went to bed early because I was wet and cold and wanted to
wrap up in my sleeping bag.
Before it started raining
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