Note: After I posted about East London, I
was asked by a family member how England was. Apparently it was not clear that
East London is a city in South Africa. I did not go to London, England. Sorry for
any confusion!
I
left Fairyland (aka Hogsback) super early, rolled up my tent, and drove. On the
road, I picked up a nurse first, then a lady going to the clinic. They both
offered me money, but I told them to keep it. I’m trying to pay it forward for
all the times I hitched for free. My destination for the day would be Addo
Elephant Park, close to Port Elizabeth where I’d be staying for the night. The
park is enormous, and of course I arrived at the completely wrong entrance (the
one for people just passing through), so I had to promise the guard I’d drive
straight through it with no deviations so I could get to the actual paying
entrance. I did just that, but on the way I found a buffalo, and there was a
cool turtle walking across the road where I stopped to pee. I exited the park
only to drive to the official entrance and enter again. Still technically a
resident of Lesotho, I was able to pay the SADC (Southern African Development Community- a collaboration of Southern
African countries) price, which as like half the international price.
Surprisingly (or not?), they didn’t even check to see if I was actually a SADC
resident. I drove around the park for like 5 hours finding elephants (and baby
elephants!), warthogs, an ostrich, meerkats, some kind of fox/jackal, different
kinds of big deer types, huge tortoises, dung beetles (which, according to
signs along the road, I must give the right of way to), zebras, and more
elephants. Then I got sick of it and booked it back to the main gate.
Tortoise in the road
The actual entrance
Zebras
My rental car used to be all white...
Heyo
Elephant booties
The baby chilling under the mom
Line of cars waiting for the elephants to get out of the road
This
may not seem very significant, but on my way out of Addo and toward Port
Elizabeth, I found myself in the middle of a huge herd of ENORMOUS wild
windmills. They were so big, slowly turning their blades in sync. I felt like
the 2016 version of Don Quixote. Let me add here that I never read the book Don
Quixote, just saw the Wishbone version on TV when I was little, and I
distinctly remember him fighting a windmill and swiftly losing.
Anyway, coming into
Port Elizabeth was pretty sketchy and trash heap-ey. It was pretty gross. I
finally got into the actual city (much cleaner) and found my hostel called 28 Towpath
(R100/night camping), a giant house and gardens with a super sustainable and
hippie vibe. As he pointed out where I
could set up my tent, the owner was like, “The [normal] bathroom is in there,
here’s the compost toilet, and if you don’t want to go all the way inside, you
can just pee in the garden.” Nice I love when people are that laid back. I
spent the rest of the evening making dinner, chilling in the hammock, and
snuggling up with a little dog. Hostel dogs are the best dogs.
The
next day, I woke up in my tent, packed up, and headed to the waterfront. This
hostel’s back yard is basically a strip of grass that comes right up to some
kind of canal. It’s really peaceful, and I decided to go for a morning walk
along the water as Little Dogs 1 and 2 followed me down the path. I took
advantage of the grass to do a little workout and stretch out there. Then I
peaced out and drove into the Port Elizabeth city center to explore Route 67,
which is a series of 67 (more or less) works of art and quotations to
commemorate Mandela’s 67 years of political life. It was really cool, from
under-the-highway murals to this nice park with the second largest flag in
Africa and pieces of art all around. One of my favorites kind of blended into
the city and I didn’t notice it at first. It was the side of a combi (minibus taxi) on a rock
face that, in several steps, looked like it was taking off into the air.
Airborne combi
Murals under the bridge
Library
Under/inside of one of the big sculptures
The park with the 2nd biggest flag in Africa
Completing the chain
Mosaic benches at a park
After
getting my art fix, I headed off to Jeffrey’s Bay (J Bay). Stay tuned!
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